Here is everything you need to know for hiking and staying over night at Mueller Hut in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. Sitting at 1800M on the Sealy Range in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park on the South Island of New Zealand, the Mueller Hut is easily one of the most scenic alpine huts in New Zealand. With phenomenal panoramic views of Aoraki Mt Cook, Mt Sefton, mountaintop glaciers and surrounding ice cliffs, this is an absolute must-do overnight hike on the South Island.
We were genuinely over the moon that we got to complete this hike and honestly loved every minute (even the stairs!!). It honestly felt like the stars aligned for our trip up to Mueller, the whole experience was phenomenal. We completed the hike in April 2021, we saw a window in what was otherwise a week of rubbish weather and jumped at the chance to book a spot in the hut before the end of the tramping season and wow it was worth it. The night before our hike up, there was quite a lot of snow fall and it just made it all the more magical. Anyhow, without further ado let’s tell you all about it…
WHERE IS THE MUELLER HUT:
The route to Mueller Hut is an out and back route that begins at White Horse Hill Campground which is 2.5 km from Aoraki/Mt Cook Village at the end of Hooker Valley Rd off SH 80. White horse Hill also has a parking area across from the camping area for those doing any of the hikes in the area, so that is where we left Allen the van overnight.
THE STATS:
Distance: 5.2km one way | 10.4KM out-and-back
Duration: 5.5-8 hours return
Elevation: 1150M gain
Mueller Hut Elevation: 1800M
Difficulty: Moderate – Difficult
WHEN TO VISIT:
It is recommended to visit Mueller Hut between Mid November – 30 April. In saying that, you can visit year round but please only do so if you are an experienced Alpine hiker, are well versed in the risk of avalanches and have the correct equipment. In the winter, you will need to hike with crampons and carry an ice axe with you in case it gets icy. If you have no experience using these then it may be wise to hike with a guide.
As I said previously, we visited Mid April before the end of the tramping season and there was snow from the ridge line across to the hut, which was walkable in walking boots but very slippy underfoot. The snow made the experience so much more magical but it did make the stretch to the hut a little more difficult.
The following is taken from the DOC website:
Summer (December–February): The route to Mueller Hut offers a mountain experience for anyone with moderate tramping experience – as long as care is taken.
Winter (June–August): The route requires good level of mountaineering experience, including walking on ice and snow with ice axe and crampons, route finding and using an avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel. Ski tourers must have a thorough knowledge of avalanche dangers and ability to navigate in alpine terrain.
Spring (September–November) / Autumn (March–May): Winter conditions can be present during spring and autumn – check with the Aoraki/Mount Cook Visitor Centre for the current conditions.
Please ensure to register your intentions at the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre on the day you start. This is part of a formal intentions process that operates in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park for your safety – failure to sign in or sign out may result in a formal search being initiated.
BOOKING TO STAY OVERNIGHT AT MUELLER HUT:
From the 11th of November to the 30th of April you need to book the Mueller Hut online in advance to secure your booking. We were in New Zealand during the borders being closed to internationals and the bookings were still extremely busy. So if you want to stay you will need to plan in advance or risk there not being a spot left in the hut. In the winter, if you wish you can still stay in the hut, and the passes can be purchased on the day at the DOC office in Mount Cook Village.
To stay overnight at Mueller Hut will cost you: Adults (18+ years): $45 per night | Youth (5–17 years): $22.50 per night and Children/Infants up to 4 go free.
For those visiting Mueller Hut you can actually camp in a tent. This is a great option if the hut is booked up but please bear in mind the alpine environment and the pretty gnarly conditions that can occur with the rapidly changing weather. You can camp and use the hut facilities for $15 per person. However this can not be booked in advance and you must visit the DOC office the morning before your hike to pay for your camping.
MUELLER HUT – WHAT TO EXPECT:
The Mueller Hut sleeps up to 28 people in two separate bunk rooms. There is a large kitchen area with a great dining space and plenty of gas cookers, two drop toilets and running water. The bunk rooms are very basic, but there are sleeping mats to put down and shelves to store your belongings. We chose a spot at the top which was better as no one moving around above us, but there isn’t a ladder so if you’re small like me it can be a bit of a challenge pulling yourself up and down.
Between November – April there are wardens who stay at the hut to take care of it and keep an eye on the conditions. I mentioned earlier we had a window in the weather, the days either side of our climb up to Mueller Hut were pretty shocking, lots of wind and rain. We knew going up that we only had that day of good weather. In the evening DOC radioed up the weather forecast the following day to let us know how the conditions would be going down.
WHAT TO PACK:
In hindsight, we over packed for our stay but I would always rather have too much than not enough especially in the environment we were in. The weather in Aoraki Mt Cook National park changes fast, particularly up at the hut. Just be prepared – pack enough warm clothes that you can layer up and spare socks as there’s nothing worse than wet socks and as you have to remove your shoes in the hut then your feet will get pretty cold and damp quickly. We hiked the route in our walking boots, just wear something sturdy and comfortable that will keep your feet warm and dry.
I would never say I sleep overnight at a back country hut, I wait there overnight until it is time to walk back out – but I am an incredibly light sleeper and can not tolerate other people snoring! Anyhow, the bunk rooms have thin plastic mattresses but bring a sleeping bag, ear plugs and an eye mask. We also have little travel pillows that we picked up from Mountain Warehouse.
Bring a large bottle of water, a pot to cook in and some cutlery. Light weight meals, noodles, pasta and freeze dried foods are great. We tend to pack lentil dhal that you can get in pouches from the supermarket and take a packet of rotis. For breakfast we took porridge and lots of tea bags. We may also have popped a bottle of wine in our bags… and a bar of Whittakers chocolate – basically if you can carry it then you can take it, just remember you will have to carry your rubbish down with you again as there are no bins at the hut.
WHAT TO EXPECT ON THE TRACK:
DOC recommends 4 hours to reach the hut from Whitehorse Hill Camground , even with the snow we were able to make it up there there in around 3.5 hours. The descent, (is extremely hard on the knees) but took us approximately 2 hours.
From Whitehorse Hill Campground, start on the Kea Point Track until you reach the Sealy Tarns turnoff. A word of warning, the Sealy Tarns is a constant zig zag of pretty hellish steps. This was probably the most difficult part of the track for both of us, we are talking 2,200 continuous steps. Although, the reward is 100% worth the climb as you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and gorgeous reflections in the tarns. We were incredibly lucky and Aoraki was visible for the whole day from the minute we started the climb up to the tarns to the moment we watched the sun go down.
From Sealy Tarns follow the orange markers (every 200 metres) through the tussock. This is not so much of a clearly formed track as this is where the route ascends a scree (gravel) slope right up to the ridgeline. It is pretty steep and loose underfoot so ensure to wear appropriate footwear. With a lot of snow fall this would be a steep snow slope, in April we were met with a light covering of snow about 10m from the top of the ridge line.
Once you reach the ridge line, enjoy the tremendous views of Mount Sefton and Mueller Glacier sweeping down the valley and listen out for the avalanches from afar, the thunderous sound of the ice cracking is spectacularly haunting.
From the ridge line the route veers to the left towards the hut. Follow the orange markers through the basin until you see Mueller Hut – about 20 minutes along the ridge, you won’t miss it – it’s bright red.
Would you recommend the track?
Yes, 100% yes. One of our favourite experiences in New Zealand was hiking to the Mueller Hut. As I said in the intro, it felt like the stars had aligned with our last minute booking, the break in the weather, the snow fall making it look that extra bit magical, the keas that popped over to say hello, the starriest skies, the best group of people. It was simply wonderful and we would both do it again in a heartbeat.
WHERE TO STAY IN MOUNT COOK VILLAGE:
Aside to staying at Mueller Hut, we have stayed in Mt Cook Village on two separate occasions, once at the YHA which has unfortunately closed down recently due to the impact of the p*ndemic and again in our campervan at the White Horse Hill Campground which I 100% recommend if you are camping. If you are not camping there are only a few options in the village itself:
$$$ The Hermitage Hotel Mount Cook
$$ The Aoraki Mt Cook Alpine Lodge
Since we hiked the Mueller Hut Route, the historical Hooker Hut has been moved to a new location and fully restored in 2020-2021, with care taken to preserve its distinctive heritage features while providing a comfortable stay. It is an 8 bunk hut with fireplace and gas cooker and there is a detached toilet. The Hooker Hut is located on the Hooker Valley Track and can be booked via the DOC website.
So, that should be all the info you need for your trip to Mueller Hut. Planning other hikes during your time in NZ? Check out my posts on the Pouakai Tarns in Taranaki and the Dukes Nose Hike in Northland.
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